What country has something for everybody? A country with amazing & unique foods and wines. A rapid road system of engineering excellence. A visible history with links to all civilizations. Mountains, seaside, city vistas that keep photographers snapping.
Spain of course! My wife Aileen and I have recently enjoyed a two week ‘top up’ of one of our favourite countries. It was pre-Covid times since we were last there and it was just great to go back.
And we only belatedly discovered Spain. We became “Iberophiles” long after becoming Francophiles, Italophiles… and lovers of most of Europe. Better late than never! And as always, our trips were planned around the fabulous Eyewitness Travel “Back Roads” books, in this case, Back Roads Spain.
We have used this series of books to plan drives through Italy, France, Germany, Ireland, Portugal, England, Belgium & France. Great way to find those amazing hidden places that are often missed by the tourists. Plus of course, the very best twisty, mountainous, empty roads and untouched villages!
FOOD & WINE
For two months before we left Australia, we cut back on calories so we could feel less guilty for what Spain would soon tempt us. Of course, Spain did not disappoint. Perhaps the centre of yumminess is San Sabastian in the Basque Country on the north (west side) coast near France. Apparently, more Michelin star restaurants here than any other city outside of Paris.
Stand outs for us are Arzak (family owned since 1897). Save up, book ahead and bring a jacket… (I forgot to tell a mate about the dress code but lucky they welcomingly said, ‘you must be from Australia”… the board shorts gave that away) and for a bit of fun, Casa Camera (a few kms up the road and built hundreds of years ago over the water. Live lobsters and crabs live in a basket lowered into the water in the middle of the room. Thanks Carmen R for that tip a few years back).
Dinner bookings generally start at 9:00pm. Even lunch starts from 1:30pm. Definitely a different way of life. Try getting a coffee at 8:00am in the cities… nothing is open!
But of course, the true experience is pintxos (or tapas or raciones). All day offerings in bars everywhere. Imaginative & creative morsels of seafood & local hams (jamon) to accompany beers and fabulous wines. Our new favourite white wine is Alberino. Not too sweet and very drinkable. Very easy to ‘bar hop’ in the old towns and choosing between interesting Pintxos on display. Some bars even give the first pintxos free.
ON THE ROAD
One of my first and lasting impressions of Spain was the extent and quality of the road system. Not unlike Italy, the country is often very mountainous. The solution for modernising these two countries was freeways (Autovia, Autostada) and they run straight through mountains and over huge chasms for literally hundreds and thousands of kilometres. Staggering engineering. And the speed limits are high (at 120kph & 130kph) so you get from location to location very quickly. Australian roads are basic by comparison.
They also have speed cameras. Everywhere. Something pioneered here in Victoria. On my last trip to Spain, Avis kindly charged me €50 “admin fee” for each of the three speeding fines I received on the one day. The admin fees were more than the fines. Cost of doing business! I drove slower this time.
BUT THE BACK ROADS…
Aileen is a photographer. Something she does for the passion for it. She researches amazing places she wants to photograph, and I overlay these to the Back Roads book, and this forms the basis of our plan. But by the time we leave Australia, our route, accommodation, destination locations and often even food stops, are all planned. Even our Google Maps route is pre-set and helps us navigate our way there.
Do we lack spontaneity? Probably. But I have long looked for certainty. I don’t want to arrive in some town in the middle of nowhere and find that the only available bed is up three flights of stairs. Having traveled to Europe for the past 4 decades, accessibility has always been a challenge.
We once booked an ‘accessible’ hotel in Spain. When we arrived, the elevator started up at the first flight of stairs. The elevator was so small that I sat on the elevator floor, folded my wheelchair, and held it above my head. Aileen lent in, and pressed the upper floor button, then ran up the stairs to help me out at the top. Now a well-practiced routine.
But accommodation can be stunning and well worth booking in advance. Use Trip Adviser to find those gems. You can get the best prices that way too. Check out this place that cost us just $177 AUD. It’s a castle. Amazing food too. Try the baby suckling pig. Northern Spain delicacy.
OMG!
One of the good things to happen in the last few years is the improvement in rental vehicles in Europe. We once drove rubbish worn out vehicles through dishonest operators who would claim damage that pre-existed (we still take photos when collecting all vehicles…this has paid off many times) and been charged to fill supposedly empty fuel tanks at penalty prices. Spain was probably amongst the worst.
But in recent times, it has been the opposite. Professional operators, great vehicles, & mostly hybrid cars that deliver good economy… something important when fuel prices are so high. Costs less to run than my thirsty cars at home.
Diving in Spain is fun… even if on the wrong side of the road. For most of the last decade, I drove more on the right side of the road than the left. That’s a lot of miles between photographs!
On this occasion we drove through the Picos de Europa National Park. These mountains sit behind Bilbao and Santander and sit away from the regular tourist routes. Amazing mountain ranges and great little villages along the way.
Of course, plenty of Paradores hotels to stay at along the way. Government owned, excellent value, these mostly historic buildings or extraordinary locations were saved into history by converting them into luxury hotels. They are all over Spain and offer good seniors discounts. “Half board’ is common. Breaky plus dinner.
SPAIN IS EASY
Whether you book ahead like we do, or just ‘wing it’ as you go, it is hard to get it wrong.
The people are friendly, the food everywhere is delicious, the history is there for the taking but not imposing, the big cities are fun, yet the small towns are loveable.
We waited way too long to make our first visit. We are trying to make up for lost time! Pick a region… any region… and go for it. You can’t visit all of Spain in one trip. But that is what is so good… you will be back.
Living the dream? We talk to our clients all the time about the important things in life. It’s not all about hard work. Andrea says that this is all about practicing what we preach.
Just go for it!
Chris Alp